Hi Readers, sorry for the no post last week as I was travelling to Hong Kong getting ready for Chinese New Year. Work was really hectic the week before but I managed to do the major sewing tasks on the Chinese Silk Brocade Jackets before departure. I packed a small sewing bag with needles and threads and finished sewing the frog closures in Hong Kong in time for New Year. You can see more about cutting the fabric and underlining on my earlier posts All about Cutting and Seaming and Collar. Here’s a quick recap on what I did.
1. Sewing in the Mandarin collar
The upper and under collars were sewn to the jacket separately, one to the jacket and one to the jacket facing. The seam allowances were pressed open using a point presser to minimise bulk.
I sew the collar by machine as much as possible but left the last bit near the centre front for hand sewing using slipstitches.
2. Stitching the sleeves
The sleeves were sewn with the seam allowances catchstitched. The silk brocade was pinked as well to prevent fraying.
I steamed sleeve cap to shape with the round end of the sleeve board. 1/4″ seam allowance was used on the sleeve caps so it was easier to sew in the sleeves.
3. Hemming the jacket
I catchstitched the jacket hem in place and used cross stitches to finish the exposed fabric edge at the hem.
I turned the jacket inside out and put it on the dress form ready for sewing the lining. The lining’s body was sewn first then the sleeves were sewn in separately.
A small ease pleat was made at the centre back.
Small pleats were pinned to take care of the sleeve cap ease.
The lining was sewn with a jump hem, again using slip stitches.
5. Frog closures
I was going to buy ready made frog closures but couldn’t find any suitable ones so I bought some rayon cords to make my own. Gold cord is for the lime jacket while the ivory one is for the black jacket.
Both the lime and black jackets were finished on time (on Chinese New Year Eve to be exact) and here’re photos of the completed ones.
I’m pretty sure the weather likes the lime jacket better as the sun was nowhere to be seen when I wore the black one for photo-shoot.
So here it is with both jacket completed just in time for New Year’s Day. I’m glad that I made the frog closures myself as there are so many rayon cord choices and I can make the buttons to the size and shape I like. The Mandarin collar could have a much stiffer interfacing though so it’s a lesson learned! Spring here I come!