Hi Readers, sorry for the no post last week as I was travelling to Hong Kong getting ready for Chinese New Year. Work was really hectic the week before but I managed to do the major sewing tasks on the Chinese Silk Brocade Jackets before departure. I packed a small sewing bag with needles and threads and finished sewing the frog closures in Hong Kong in time for New Year. You can see more about cutting the fabric and underlining on my earlier posts All about Cutting and Seaming and Collar. Here’s a quick recap on what I did.
1. Sewing in the Mandarin collar
The upper and under collars were sewn to the jacket separately, one to the jacket and one to the jacket facing. The seam allowances were pressed open using a point presser to minimise bulk.
Sewing the upper and under collars to the jacket separately
I sew the collar by machine as much as possible but left the last bit near the centre front for hand sewing using slipstitches.
Leaving a small hole for finishing by hand
The finished collar – still need another round of pressing
2. Stitching the sleeves
The sleeves were sewn with the seam allowances catchstitched. The silk brocade was pinked as well to prevent fraying.
The seam allowances were secured to the sleeve using catchstitches
I steamed sleeve cap to shape with the round end of the sleeve board. 1/4″ seam allowance was used on the sleeve caps so it was easier to sew in the sleeves.
Steaming the sleeve cap
3. Hemming the jacket
I catchstitched the jacket hem in place and used cross stitches to finish the exposed fabric edge at the hem.
The jacket hem
4. Lining
I turned the jacket inside out and put it on the dress form ready for sewing the lining. The lining’s body was sewn first then the sleeves were sewn in separately.
Jacket ready for sewing the lining
A small ease pleat was made at the centre back.
Pining the lining and slipstitching along the edge
Small pleats were pinned to take care of the sleeve cap ease.
Pining the sleeve cap in place
The lining was sewn with a jump hem, again using slip stitches.
Jump hem
5. Frog closures
I was going to buy ready made frog closures but couldn’t find any suitable ones so I bought some rayon cords to make my own. Gold cord is for the lime jacket while the ivory one is for the black jacket.
Making the frog closures – gold version
Ivory frog closures
Both the lime and black jackets were finished on time (on Chinese New Year Eve to be exact) and here’re photos of the completed ones.
The finished lime jacket
Lime Jacket with the pink lining
Lime jacket – back view
The lime jacket’s details
The lime jacket’s centre front
I’m pretty sure the weather likes the lime jacket better as the sun was nowhere to be seen when I wore the black one for photo-shoot.
Black jacket – side view
Black jacket – back view
Black jacket – completed
Green lining to the black jacket
Black jacket’s sleeve details
So here it is with both jacket completed just in time for New Year’s Day. I’m glad that I made the frog closures myself as there are so many rayon cord choices and I can make the buttons to the size and shape I like. The Mandarin collar could have a much stiffer interfacing though so it’s a lesson learned! Spring here I come!
Ooh these are utterly gorgeous – great colour combinations. Your hand sewing is exquisite not to mention your handiwork on the frog closures. Pleased you finished on time. No small feat – Happy New Year!
Thank you! I was sewing under pressure on New Year’s Eve but it went ok in the end. Phew!
How gorgeous! What a wonderful job you did.
And I almost forgot, Happy New Year! I hope the snake is a good one.
Thank you! I’m eating and resting a lot so it’s definitely good!
Wow! I am very impressed. It is fabulous! Congratulations!
Thanks so much!
Beautiful jackets, well done! I am very impressed with the handmade frogs..
Thanks! The frog closures aren’t all identical but they look roughly ok on the jackets. It’s good to try something new for sure.
And Happy New Year!
Thanks!
What beautiful jackets. They both look stunning and those frog closures you made by hand are beautiful. Did you use a tutorial or instructions for them?
Thanks! I used a book called ‘Decorative Fusion Knots’. It’s all about Celtic / oriental knitting. I combined two types of knots together to make the loop and button sides.
i cant decide on which one is my favourite because i love them both. WOW!
Thanks! I think I like the black one more too!
These look stunning!
Thank you!
Oh I loooove these! I think I officially need a brocade jacket!!
Thank you so much! Glad u like it!
They both look amazing! But my favourite is definitely the long black and pink, love the pop of lime green, great job, you have so much patience and it was well worth it!
Thanks! I like the black version more as well!
Brilliant colour combinations with both jackets…real works of art! The couture details are wonderful…thanks for detailing how you did them! Happy New Year!
Thank you! Glad you like the detail photos!
Oh my, these are beautiful! The lime is my favorite, I think. I love it with the fuchsia lining.
Thank you!
You did it!! I’m so glad you finished both of them – and they could not be more beautiful. The self-made closures are such a lovely touch – and I agree with CherryPix – the color combos are, indeed, brilliant!
Thanks a lot! I thought I would finish one but having both finished is a bonus!
Beautiful! Beautiful! Absolutely lovely
You have done a superb job in creating both jackets. Thank you so much for sharing your talent this way…. 
Thank you and I’m glad u like the blog posts
Both jacket are gorgeous! And so well made
Thank you!
both are beautiful and impeccable workmanship
Thank you!
Beautiful work! Thanks for the tip on the book for the fusion knots!
Thanks and no problem!
Oh wow! These both turned out incredibly gorgeous! I thought I’d like the black/pink on the best, but I have to say that I adore that green on on you. And all that hand sewing! You go girl! (Does anyone say that anymore? LOL!)
Thank you!
A triumph! Love the detail especially the closures. Happy New Year!
Thank you!!
Fabulous garment. I love the longer black version.
Thank you! Me too!
I love the jackets especially the green one. They are so beautifully made & those lovely frog closures… I am very impressed.
Happy New Year!
Thank you! I’m glad to have made the frog closures too!
It’s lovely, and my favourite is the green one, but only because I love green -both jackets are sewn and pressed perfectly. I have to say, also, that your smile makes everything even better!
looks really fantastic and professional! I love the fact you used contrasting colors for the lining and esp. like the black one:)
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Absolutely stunning work…you look beautiful in both.
Thank you!
Just wonderful, gorgeous choice of colours and such amazingly professional work!
Thank you so much!
what beautiful jackets – I love both of them, but the lime green one is especially stunning!
Thank you very much! I like the lime version too!