Chinese Silk Brocade Jackets – Completed

Hi Readers, sorry for the no post last week as I was travelling to Hong Kong getting ready for Chinese New Year. Work was really hectic the week before but I managed to do the major sewing tasks on the Chinese Silk Brocade Jackets before departure. I packed a small sewing bag with needles and threads and finished sewing the frog closures in Hong Kong in time for New Year. You can see more about cutting the fabric and underlining on my earlier posts All about Cutting and Seaming and Collar. Here’s a quick recap on what I did.

1. Sewing in the Mandarin collar

The upper and under collars were sewn to the jacket separately, one to the jacket and one to the jacket facing. The seam allowances were pressed open using a point presser to minimise bulk.

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Sewing the upper and under collars to the jacket separately

I sew the collar by machine as much as possible but left the last bit near the centre front for hand sewing using slipstitches.

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Leaving a small hole for finishing by hand

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The finished collar – still need another round of pressing

2. Stitching the sleeves

The sleeves were sewn with the seam allowances catchstitched. The silk brocade was pinked as well to prevent fraying.

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The seam allowances were secured to the sleeve using catchstitches

I steamed sleeve cap to shape with the round end of the sleeve board. 1/4″ seam allowance was used on the sleeve caps so it was easier to sew in the sleeves.

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Steaming the sleeve cap

3. Hemming the jacket

I catchstitched the jacket hem in place and used cross stitches to finish the exposed fabric edge at the hem.

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The jacket hem

4. Lining

I turned the jacket inside out and put it on the dress form ready for sewing the lining. The lining’s body was sewn first then the sleeves were sewn in separately.

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Jacket ready for sewing the lining

A small ease pleat was made at the centre back.

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Pining the lining and slipstitching along the edge

Small pleats were pinned to take care of the sleeve cap ease.

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Pining the sleeve cap in place

The lining was sewn with a jump hem, again using slip stitches.

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Jump hem

5. Frog closures

I was going to buy ready made frog closures but couldn’t find any suitable ones so I bought some rayon cords to make my own. Gold cord is for the lime jacket while the ivory one is for the black jacket.

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Making the frog closures – gold version

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Ivory frog closures

Both the lime and black jackets were finished on time (on Chinese New Year Eve to be exact) and here’re photos of the completed ones.

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The finished lime jacket

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Lime Jacket with the pink lining

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Lime jacket – back view

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The lime jacket’s details

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The lime jacket’s centre front

I’m pretty sure the weather likes the lime jacket better as the sun was nowhere to be seen when I wore the black one for photo-shoot.

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Black jacket – side view

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Black jacket – back view

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Black jacket – completed

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Green lining to the black jacket

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Black jacket’s sleeve details

So here it is with both jacket completed just in time for New Year’s Day. I’m glad that I made the frog closures myself as there are so many rayon cord choices and I can make the buttons to the size and shape I like. The Mandarin collar could have a much stiffer interfacing though so it’s a lesson learned! Spring here I come!

52 thoughts on “Chinese Silk Brocade Jackets – Completed

  1. Ooh these are utterly gorgeous – great colour combinations. Your hand sewing is exquisite not to mention your handiwork on the frog closures. Pleased you finished on time. No small feat – Happy New Year!

  2. What beautiful jackets. They both look stunning and those frog closures you made by hand are beautiful. Did you use a tutorial or instructions for them?

    • Thanks! I used a book called ‘Decorative Fusion Knots’. It’s all about Celtic / oriental knitting. I combined two types of knots together to make the loop and button sides.

  3. You did it!! I’m so glad you finished both of them – and they could not be more beautiful. The self-made closures are such a lovely touch – and I agree with CherryPix – the color combos are, indeed, brilliant!

  4. Beautiful! Beautiful! Absolutely lovely :) You have done a superb job in creating both jackets. Thank you so much for sharing your talent this way…. :)

  5. Oh wow! These both turned out incredibly gorgeous! I thought I’d like the black/pink on the best, but I have to say that I adore that green on on you. And all that hand sewing! You go girl! (Does anyone say that anymore? LOL!)

  6. It’s lovely, and my favourite is the green one, but only because I love green -both jackets are sewn and pressed perfectly. I have to say, also, that your smile makes everything even better!

  7. Pingback: Burda 12/2012 Retro Dress Mockup | sosewlovely

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