Hi Readers! I finally finished my Burda 08/2009 Swing Coat which I started more than a month ago. Last week I couldn’t do much sewing after work so I squeezed all the lining sewing to a Saturday late afternoon (until 3am!) and woke up at 9am on Sunday to finish slip stitching the lining in place. To recap, here’s the photo from the Burda magazine which I fell in love with.
The Burda Swing Coat Photo
This is my first coat making project and to take full advantage of the coat making experience I used hair canvas for the shaping and underlined the coat with silk organza as well. I tried documenting the sewing process as much as I can and you can see my previous posts via the links below:
Time to Make a Coat – This has more photos and line drawings of the coat pattern
Swing Coat Progress Report – My muslin mockup and underlining choice
Swing Coat Progress Report No. 2 – Making single welt pockets, bound buttonholes, attaching the hair canvas to the coat front and pad stitching the lapels
Swing Coat Progress Report No. 3 – Pad stitching the collars and putting the main coat pieces together
Last Swing Coat Progress Report – Attaching the collar unit to the coat and stitching the facing pieces
For the lining, I turned the coat inside out and put it on the dress stand. I pinned the lining to the facing and sandwiched an ivory colour single folded bias binding (made with cupro / rayon lining) to form a contrast colour piping.
Pinning the lining to the coat’s wrong side
I think the piping echos with the silk ribbon on the collar and lapels and bridges the colour difference between the lining (also rayon) and the wool tweed. I slip stitched along the turquoise lining catching the layers underneath. The stitches are bigger than I would like in some cases but at 1am Sunday morning I’m not complaining!
Homemade bias binding as piping
Like I did with the coat, I let the lining hang overnight so the bias at the side seams would settle. The lining was smoothed and pinned onto the coat’s hem then trimmed. I did a 1″ deep jump hem throughout and used slip stitching again to hold the hem in place.
The jump hem is about 1″ deep
Lastly – button choices! I have a selection of buttons which could be used for the coat, clockwise from the left are vintage white leather buttons, new glass buttons, pearl like plastic button with a black and gold trim and cream colour bone buttons. I chose the glass buttons in the end as they’re uncommon in ready to wear (probably because they are too easy to break) and they show the bound buttonholes behind.
My button choices
So here’s my finished coat on the dress stand.
The finished coat
Side view of the finished coat
The collar and the silk ribbon trim
The not long enough silk ribbon and bow finish on the facing. You’ll see why I made the bow in my earlier post.
4 glass buttons are used – need to be careful with these!
On Sunday afternoon I managed to sew on the last buttons and wore the coat for an outdoor photo shoot (thanks Mr. L for taking the photos in the cold!). The sky was grey but I was definitely in a good mood to have finished the coat.
My cosy swing coat in a grey winter day
As the coat’s hem is quite wide, it has a lot of swing to it. Having the silk organza lining definitely helped the drape as well.
Back view of the swing coat
On the lining, I would recommend using a thicker fabric as the rayon lining I used is a bit too thin for coat. If I’m going to make a coat or jacket I will definitely used a twill or satin weave lining fabric for more durability and opacity.
Should have used a thicker fabric for the coat lining
While taking these photos two kids walked pass and they were looking at me and Mr. L with much curiosity. Mr. L explained to them that I made this coat and the kids said ‘Awesome!’. How cool is that. Thanks kids!
Coat is quite warm as well
Back view
Now that it’s December I’ve got a few small sewing projects to do for Mr. L and will be making Christmas presents for the family as well. It will be a nice change to do something quick and easy!
Beautiful coat, love all the care and attention to detail. It looks great on you and that flash of blue lining is a real couture touch. Well done.
Thank you so much!
Awesome is definitely right! What a gorgeous coat, you must be very pleased with how it turned out.
Thanks! The kids looked really confused though. ^o^
This looks great, I love the finished shape. You must be so pleased. It’s really interesting seeing the final outcome after all the progress reports.
Thanks! I’m glad you enjoyed those progress photos!
So beautiful, all that attention detail has certainly paid off. Well done!
Thank you! I’m glad I went down the hair canvas route for this coat!
Oh, this is truly beautiful. What a gorgeous lining even if you think it should be a bit heavier weight – and the white piping is perfect. I have a feeling you will be turning heads when wearing this!! Congratulations on a beautiful accomplishment.
Thank you! I only realised that the lining is too thin after laying it onto the coat, anyway now I know the next coat needs a thicker lining!
Beautiful coat, you did a really good job.
Thank you!
Your coat is gorgeous, you did a great job!
Thank you!
Just stunning! Karenn
Thank you!
It’s beautiful, and so much better than the original in Burda. The white silk ribbon is a great detail and I love how you made it go all the way inside the coat.
Thank you! I didn’t think of putting the ribbon inside the coat but I couldn’t find a way to terminate the ribbon either so I just continued slip stitching it until the ribbon ran out!
It was worth the wait to see this beauty! You do such fine work, and the coat looks amazing on you. It is a perfect timeless classic, and I have enjoyed seeing all of your detailed work over the past weeks.
Thank you! I’m glad you enjoyed the progress pics!
I hope this coat gives you many years of happy wear and compliments, too!
Thank you! It rained today so I didn’t wear it to work. I’m waiting for a sunny winter day!
This looks very cute on you and I love the splash of color for the lining.
Thank you!
This is so beautiful! Well done! When I’m ready to tackle my first coat, I definitely want to re-read this whole series for inspiration.
Thank you! I’m glad the posts might become useful when you make your coat!
Ooooh lovely! It’s got a really nice shape-I didn’t notice that in the mag but your version really emphasises the cape-like fit. Good job!
Thank you! My husband said this type of coat is also called a ‘house coat’, didn’t know he has knowledge on fashion terminology!
Your coat is gorgeous. The time and detail you have put into making it, really shows in the finished garment. So lovely. Enjoy all the compliments you are going to receive when you wear it.
Thank you so much!!
wow! you continuously amaze me! all that work totally paid off, such a delightful piece ^_^
Thank you! I did have doubt (quite a lot actually) after I decided to go for the hand stitching route. I’m glad you like the outcome!
Fabulous!! The lining colour works a treat, and it’s great to see it peeking out of the sleeve! Lovely job.
Thank you! Turquoise has become my go to bright colour and I’ve got some wool mix jersey in similar colour too. Haven’t thought about what to make with the jersey yet though.
It is fabulous! I have nominated you for a 2012 blog of the year award. For details check my page.
Thank you! That’s very kind of you to think of my blog. I’m really grateful!
I wasn’t convinced by Burda’s version. But yours is FABULOUS and you look a million in it! Great outfit coordination. Congratulation on completion of your first finely tailored coat!
Thank you!!!
BTW, I nominated you for an One Lovely Blog Award a couple of days ago and forgot to inform you! Oops. I realize it’s a bit of a chain letter thing that not everyone want to participate in. But I thought surely more people deserve to see this coat of yours, and nominating you would at least point people in the right direction. So why not!
Anyway, should you wish to participate, you can find the One Lovely Blog Award rules and the award badge at my blog: http://overflowingstash.wordpress.com/2012/12/10/and-the-award-goes-to/
Happy holiday sewing! Looking forward to seeing more of your projects in the coming years
Pia
Hi Pia,
Thanks for the lovely nomniation and sorry for the late reply. Works’ been really hectic lately and I haven’t done much sewing. I’ll take a look at the rules. Have a happy holiday!
Veanna
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What a beautiful coat! I love all your “detail” pictures.
Thank you!
Fabulous coat, congratulations!
Thank you!
Amazingly, amazingly gorgeous. Apart from the obvious of your having such a wonderful mix of fabrics and design elements, the finished garment is just beautiful. And you look wonderful wearing it!! Here’s to many more winters with this beauty
Thank you so much! You’re very kind!
It is absolutely beautiful.
Thank you!
Take great pride in wearing such a lovely coat. It truly is beautiful.
Thank you!!
Just gorgeous! I’m now going to check out all the links leading up to the grand finish. You really have done a wonderful job.
Thanks! I’m glad you enjoy the post!
Wow… great coat and I like the surprise lining.
Thanks!!
Looks absolutely amazing! Job well done! I will come back to this post when I do a lined jacket this year
Thanks so much! I’m glad the posts might become useful !
Beautiful job! I have yet to take on a sewing project for myself – I sew for my girls a ton but I’m too nervous to try something for me!
I think I nees to get over me fear 
Love this!
Oh, I just adore your version of this coat! -Nizzy
Thanks a lot!
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