Burda 08/2009 Swing Coat Completed

Hi Readers! I finally finished my Burda 08/2009 Swing Coat which I started more than a month ago. Last week I couldn’t do much sewing after work so I squeezed all the lining sewing to a Saturday late afternoon (until 3am!) and woke up at 9am on Sunday to finish slip stitching the lining in place. To recap, here’s the photo from the Burda magazine which I fell in love with.

The Burda Swing Coat Photo

The Burda Swing Coat Photo

This is my first coat making project and to take full advantage of the coat making experience I used hair canvas for the shaping and underlined the coat with silk organza as well.  I tried documenting the sewing process as much as I can and you can see my previous posts via the links below:

Time to Make a Coat – This has more photos and line drawings of the coat pattern

Swing Coat Progress Report – My muslin mockup and underlining choice

Swing Coat Progress Report No. 2 – Making single welt pockets, bound buttonholes, attaching the hair canvas to the coat front and pad stitching the lapels

Swing Coat Progress Report No. 3 – Pad stitching the collars and putting the main coat pieces together

Last Swing Coat Progress Report – Attaching the collar unit to the coat and stitching the facing pieces

For the lining, I turned the coat inside out and put it on the dress stand. I pinned the lining to the facing and sandwiched an ivory colour single folded bias binding (made with cupro / rayon lining) to form a contrast colour piping.

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Pinning the lining to the coat’s wrong side

I think the piping echos with the silk ribbon on the collar and lapels and bridges the colour difference between the lining (also rayon) and the wool tweed.  I slip stitched along the turquoise lining catching the layers underneath. The stitches are bigger than I would like in some cases but at 1am Sunday morning I’m not complaining!

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Homemade bias binding as piping

Like I did with the coat, I let the lining hang overnight so the bias at the side seams would settle. The lining was smoothed and pinned onto the coat’s hem then trimmed. I did a 1″ deep jump hem throughout and used slip stitching again to hold the hem in place.

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The jump hem is about 1″ deep

Lastly – button choices! I have a selection of buttons which could be used for the coat, clockwise from the left are vintage white leather buttons, new glass buttons, pearl like plastic button with a black and gold trim and cream colour bone buttons. I chose the glass buttons in the end as they’re uncommon in ready to wear (probably because they are too easy to break) and they show the bound buttonholes behind.

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My button choices

So here’s my finished coat on the dress stand.

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The finished coat

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Side view of the finished coat

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The collar and the silk ribbon trim

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The not long enough silk ribbon and bow finish on the facing. You’ll see why I made the bow in my earlier post.

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4 glass buttons are used – need to be careful with these!

On Sunday afternoon I managed to sew on the last buttons and wore the coat for an outdoor photo shoot (thanks Mr. L for taking the photos in the cold!).  The sky was grey but I was definitely in a good mood to have finished the coat.

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My cosy swing coat in a grey winter day

As the coat’s hem is quite wide, it has a lot of swing to it. Having the silk organza lining definitely helped the drape as well.

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Back view of the swing coat

On the lining, I would recommend using a thicker fabric as the rayon lining I used is a bit too thin for coat. If I’m going to make a coat or jacket I will definitely used a twill or satin weave lining fabric for more durability and opacity.

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Should have used a thicker fabric for the coat lining

While taking these photos two kids walked pass and they were looking at me and Mr. L with much curiosity. Mr. L explained to them that I made this coat and the kids said ‘Awesome!’. How cool is that. Thanks kids!

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Coat is quite warm as well

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Back view

Now that it’s December I’ve got a few small sewing projects to do for Mr. L and will be making Christmas presents for the family as well. It will be a nice change to do something quick and easy!

66 thoughts on “Burda 08/2009 Swing Coat Completed

  1. Oh, this is truly beautiful. What a gorgeous lining even if you think it should be a bit heavier weight – and the white piping is perfect. I have a feeling you will be turning heads when wearing this!! Congratulations on a beautiful accomplishment.

  2. It’s beautiful, and so much better than the original in Burda. The white silk ribbon is a great detail and I love how you made it go all the way inside the coat.

    • Thank you! I didn’t think of putting the ribbon inside the coat but I couldn’t find a way to terminate the ribbon either so I just continued slip stitching it until the ribbon ran out!

  3. It was worth the wait to see this beauty! You do such fine work, and the coat looks amazing on you. It is a perfect timeless classic, and I have enjoyed seeing all of your detailed work over the past weeks.

  4. This is so beautiful! Well done! When I’m ready to tackle my first coat, I definitely want to re-read this whole series for inspiration.

  5. Your coat is gorgeous. The time and detail you have put into making it, really shows in the finished garment. So lovely. Enjoy all the compliments you are going to receive when you wear it. :)

    • Thank you! Turquoise has become my go to bright colour and I’ve got some wool mix jersey in similar colour too. Haven’t thought about what to make with the jersey yet though.

  6. I wasn’t convinced by Burda’s version. But yours is FABULOUS and you look a million in it! Great outfit coordination. Congratulation on completion of your first finely tailored coat! :-)

      • BTW, I nominated you for an One Lovely Blog Award a couple of days ago and forgot to inform you! Oops. I realize it’s a bit of a chain letter thing that not everyone want to participate in. But I thought surely more people deserve to see this coat of yours, and nominating you would at least point people in the right direction. So why not!

        Anyway, should you wish to participate, you can find the One Lovely Blog Award rules and the award badge at my blog: http://overflowingstash.wordpress.com/2012/12/10/and-the-award-goes-to/

        Happy holiday sewing! Looking forward to seeing more of your projects in the coming years :-)

        Pia

      • Hi Pia,

        Thanks for the lovely nomniation and sorry for the late reply. Works’ been really hectic lately and I haven’t done much sewing. I’ll take a look at the rules. Have a happy holiday!

        Veanna

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  8. Amazingly, amazingly gorgeous. Apart from the obvious of your having such a wonderful mix of fabrics and design elements, the finished garment is just beautiful. And you look wonderful wearing it!! Here’s to many more winters with this beauty :)

  9. Beautiful job! I have yet to take on a sewing project for myself – I sew for my girls a ton but I’m too nervous to try something for me! :) I think I nees to get over me fear :) Love this!

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  11. I’ve been wanting to make this coat for years and am finally embarking on it this weekend. (Hopefully it’ll be finished before the Australian winter is out! :/) It’ll be my first ever coat, and even though I have some great tailoring reference books, I’m so thrilled to be able to refer to your posts as well, especially since your version is so beautifully done! So thanks a LOT for detailing your process!

    • Thanks!! I fell in love with the pattern the moment I saw it. I’m glad that you find the post useful. I think I definitely chose the wrong lining (its too thin) otherwise its well worth the effort. :)

      • Yes, that’s especially helpful to know since everything I have read on coat-making says “choose a sturdier synthetic lining” but I was obstinately going to choose a lightweight silk anyhow because of my silk fetish ;) Now I think I will heed your example and go for something a little more substantial and hard-wearing! I was interested to see that you underlined with silk organza – that’s something I do often in dressmaking, and that I know is sometimes done for jackets as well, but I hadn’t heard of it being used as a *coat* underlining. Obviously a slightly stiffer drape is quite important for this coat’s silhouette and I can see the advantages of organza – for one it won’t add much bulk compared to other options like muslin. And your end result looks great – would you recommend going the silk organza route based on your experience?

  12. Because of you and one other seamstress, I have been all over the internet trying to find this burda 8/2009 or just this coat pattern burda 116. Your coat is so awesome and absolutely beautiful. I will continue to look for this book and salivate over your gorgeous coat until I can find the pattern and make my own.

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