After almost two and half weeks of occasional sewing, I finally managed to finish the vintage Vogue 8942 dress which I mentioned in the previous post.
I used a greyish viscose suiting fabric which I got from Stone Fabrics as the fashion fabric and a tiny piece of vintage kimono silk crepe as facing which I found at the bottom of my drawer.
I’ve made vintage style garments before such as the Peony Dress from Colette but this is the first time when I actually made something from an almost 60 years old pattern. I must say a bit of thinking and planning ahead was required.
Firstly, I trued up the pattern and changed the waist and hip dimensions as my waist is way bigger than the vintage 25”. Then I redrafted the sleeve cap so there’s 1 1/2” ease instead of the grand 2 ½” which is included in the pattern. Lastly, I decided to omit the pocket details as the kimono silk facing would clash with the pockets visually.
The kimono silk facing was interfaced before being attached to the neckline. I trimmed the neckline corners and used the pointed presser for pressing which helps to keep the corners sharp.
I also used the kimono silk as facing for the sleeve hem. I didn’t apply interfacing here to keep the sleeve hem soft.
The crepe fabric has a brushed soft finish and to stick to the vintage ethos all vertical seam allowances were pinked and topstitched.
I’ve left a ¼” seam allowance around the armholes and sleeve caps so it’s easier to sew. The seam finish was notched, zigzagged and pressed towards the sleeves to minimise bulk.
As the bodice is gathered, I think pinking or zigzagging wouldn’t be very neat so I’ve used some jade green seam binding to encase the raw edges.
The dress has a lapped zipper at the skirt’s side seam and individually sewn snaps at the bodice. The pattern actually explains that this is to ensure that the bodice’s seam remains soft. How thoughtful!
I also used the same seam binding to finish the hem allowance and catchstitched the hem in place.
The pattern includes instructions on making a fabric covered curve belt but since my waist is way bigger than the pattern, I decided to make a simple straight one instead with a shop bought buckle. Believe me, this belt took three times as long as it should take because the belt backing which I can find here seems too soft. It took me forever to push the belt backing into the fabric tube. I know that you can get proper belt backing in the US from Joanns. Afashionablestitch has really good articles about the making of a fabric covered belt and also sells the belt backing and buckles. I’ll definitely do that for any future projects which involve fabric belt making!
All in all I’m quite happy with the results as the project started out as a gamble and now I’ve got a work dress to wear! Yippee!