After almost two and half weeks of occasional sewing, I finally managed to finish the vintage Vogue 8942 dress which I mentioned in the previous post.
The vintage pattern 8942
I used a greyish viscose suiting fabric which I got from Stone Fabrics as the fashion fabric and a tiny piece of vintage kimono silk crepe as facing which I found at the bottom of my drawer.
The kimono silk remnant and the viscose
The front view
The back view
I’ve made vintage style garments before such as the Peony Dress from Colette but this is the first time when I actually made something from an almost 60 years old pattern. I must say a bit of thinking and planning ahead was required.
Firstly, I trued up the pattern and changed the waist and hip dimensions as my waist is way bigger than the vintage 25”. Then I redrafted the sleeve cap so there’s 1 1/2” ease instead of the grand 2 ½” which is included in the pattern. Lastly, I decided to omit the pocket details as the kimono silk facing would clash with the pockets visually.
The kimono silk facing was interfaced before being attached to the neckline. I trimmed the neckline corners and used the pointed presser for pressing which helps to keep the corners sharp.
Pressing the trimmed neckline corner and facing
The contrast neckline
I also used the kimono silk as facing for the sleeve hem. I didn’t apply interfacing here to keep the sleeve hem soft.
The faced sleeve hem
The crepe fabric has a brushed soft finish and to stick to the vintage ethos all vertical seam allowances were pinked and topstitched.
Topstitched seam
I’ve left a ¼” seam allowance around the armholes and sleeve caps so it’s easier to sew. The seam finish was notched, zigzagged and pressed towards the sleeves to minimise bulk.
Zigzagging the armhole seam allowance. The notched seam allowance belongs to the sleeve
As the bodice is gathered, I think pinking or zigzagging wouldn’t be very neat so I’ve used some jade green seam binding to encase the raw edges.
The bound waist seam
The dress has a lapped zipper at the skirt’s side seam and individually sewn snaps at the bodice. The pattern actually explains that this is to ensure that the bodice’s seam remains soft. How thoughtful!
Seam binding is used to extend the snap placket
A thread bar instead of metal eye is used at the waist seam
I also used the same seam binding to finish the hem allowance and catchstitched the hem in place.
The hem
The hidden catchstitching
The pattern includes instructions on making a fabric covered curve belt but since my waist is way bigger than the pattern, I decided to make a simple straight one instead with a shop bought buckle. Believe me, this belt took three times as long as it should take because the belt backing which I can find here seems too soft. It took me forever to push the belt backing into the fabric tube. I know that you can get proper belt backing in the US from Joanns. Afashionablestitch has really good articles about the making of a fabric covered belt and also sells the belt backing and buckles. I’ll definitely do that for any future projects which involve fabric belt making!
The belt backing and buckle
The belt is stitched close at the back
All in all I’m quite happy with the results as the project started out as a gamble and now I’ve got a work dress to wear! Yippee!
A comfortable work dress
Skyline visits again!
Your dress is lovely. I am impressed by all of the attention to detail! The simplicity of the design really lets your meticulous work stand out.
Thank you! Among all the dressmaking steps the belt is the most challenging! It took me almost 2 hours to stuff the belt backing in…
What a beautiful dress. It really looks lovely on you. I’m very impressed with your perfect finishing and details.
Thank you! It did take a bit of thinking and slow sewing. My next project would be quick and easy
Your sewing is immaculate!
Ah thank you. I’m a bit OCD when it comes to seaming…
Your excellent eye for colour and style has resulted in a beautiful dress. Love the care and thought you put into the construction of this dress…
Thank you! That’s very kind of you!
Love your finished dress and the detail of the silk lining that peeks out a bit. I agree, those vintage patterns are great in that they have such nice instructions and the pattern printing quality is very nice. Look forward to seeing your next creations.
I found that reading the vintage pattern instructions gives me a lot of ideas such as staying the seam properly, having darted sleeves. It does take longer to make but worth the effort!
The dress is beautifully executed. The silk facing is perfect. Wonderful job.
Thank you!
This is stunning. I’m blown away by all of the careful details, and the silk kimono facing is so so lovely.
Thanks for the belt tips – I can’t find any decent belting material, and have put off getting any thus far.
As gorgeous on the inside as it is on the outside – I absolutely adore seeing beautifully finished seams, hems and the like – this garment certainly didn’t disappoint! Love it
Thank you so much fo the complement!!!!
As someone who also pays attention to detail. I love it. I had 2 teachers when I was young. A Grandmother who taught me to finish well well and an Aunt who was “slap dash” I always prefered taking or making the time to finish well. I am grateful to them both though. (love the cat)
Thank you! I like both slow and fast sewing. Ideally alternate between the two!! I guess fast sewing can be quality sewing too when some careful planning!
love this dress and the contrast at the neck really works with the main fabric – great choice. loved seeing all the details inside.
Thank you
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Superbly executed! Love this dress, your fabric composition and style. Any suggestions where I could get this vintage pattern? Thank you
Thanks a lot! I came across this pattern on eBay by chance. You can try eBay or Etsy. You might not find the same one but there are plenty of nice vintage patterns waiting to be made into modern garments!
Thanks!
This is a lovely dress – and beautifully constructed. Your idea of using the kimono silk for facing the collar and sleeve hems is brilliant – it really adds the perfect accent. Great job! I’m delighted to have found your blog!
Thank you! I enjoyed reading your blog too!
The fit is perfect and I love the finishings. Thanks for sending me the link to this posting. I get many good ideas from you, especially with the colorful linings and facings.
I am working from a 60s pattern now so I am so happy to read your post- I hope mine turn out even half as nice! Now I feel wish I hadn’t hurried through and not make a muslin let alone finishing the seams so nicely- your dress is really beautiful! and your attention to detail and patience very admirable!
Sorry for the late reply! Work has been hectic lately… I’m glad that you like the dress and this is one of my work dress which I wear often. I look forward to seeing your creations!
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