Here’s the step by step photos of how I did the invisible hem for the English Rose Garden Dress. Although hand stitching is required, you’ll find that it doesn’t take too long to sew.

Step 1 – Decide the hem length by pinning. I’ve allowed 2 inches hem allowance and double fold the hem allowance so the raw edge is touching the hem itself. Press.

Double fold the hem and press

Step 2 – Take a single thread (I used Guternmann polyester thread) about the length of your hand to elbow. Tie the thread end with a knot then secure it to the side seam’s seam allowance. Stitching is done from left to right for right handed sewer, the other way round for lefties. Fold the hem allowance down by about 1/4″. Take a stitch at the hem allowance from right to left. I used my left hand to hold the hem allowance’s fold down.

Here I’ve already done a few stitches

Another view of the stitch at the hem allowance

Step 3 – Pull the thread through.

Pull the thread through. Check that the stitch is not visible on the outermost hem allowance.

Step 4 - Take the needle through the fashion fabric from right to left picking up 1 or 2 thread. My stitches at at 1/4″ spacing. I used my left hand index finger to feel the fashion fabric to make sure that the needle doesn’t prick through. Be sure to leave some ‘slack’ in thread tension. Pulling too tight will result in dimples on the fashion fabric side.

Take 1 or 2 thread from the fashion fabric only from right to left.

Don’t pull the thread too tight otherwise dimples will show on the fashion fabric.

Repeat this until you almost run out of thread. Secure the thread ends to the hem allowance and/or side seam allowances only. Give the finished hem a light press when done.

The invisible hem with no dimples on the fashion fabric side.

The cotton fabric I used is quite thick and forgiving. I would recommend underlining if fashion fabric is used. I hope this is useful.