Here’s the step by step photos of how I did the invisible hem for the English Rose Garden Dress. Although hand stitching is required, you’ll find that it doesn’t take too long to sew.
Step 1 – Decide the hem length by pinning. I’ve allowed 2 inches hem allowance and double fold the hem allowance so the raw edge is touching the hem itself. Press.
Step 2 – Take a single thread (I used Guternmann polyester thread) about the length of your hand to elbow. Tie the thread end with a knot then secure it to the side seam’s seam allowance. Stitching is done from left to right for right handed sewer, the other way round for lefties. Fold the hem allowance down by about 1/4″. Take a stitch at the hem allowance from right to left. I used my left hand to hold the hem allowance’s fold down.
Step 3 – Pull the thread through.
Step 4 - Take the needle through the fashion fabric from right to left picking up 1 or 2 thread. My stitches at at 1/4″ spacing. I used my left hand index finger to feel the fashion fabric to make sure that the needle doesn’t prick through. Be sure to leave some ‘slack’ in thread tension. Pulling too tight will result in dimples on the fashion fabric side.
Repeat this until you almost run out of thread. Secure the thread ends to the hem allowance and/or side seam allowances only. Give the finished hem a light press when done.
The cotton fabric I used is quite thick and forgiving. I would recommend underlining if fashion fabric is used. I hope this is useful.